September 20, 2012 0 1

Charlie

It must be hard for new designers not to conform to what they think will get the most column inches and exposure, rather than following their instinct, when starting out in the fashion business. It is acknowledged that most businesses, albeit of the industry, can take five years to turn a profit, but what I admire most about Charlie May is her conviction. In only three short seasons she has managed to carve a signature all her own that makes her brand instantly recognisable; and there is a fine line between a signature, and repetition. Just as Peter Pilotto, Mary Kantrantzou, and Holly Fulton are arguably synonymous with their play on pattern, and print; from this young designers debut to SS13, Charlie has managed to develop and hone her aesthetic of clean line androgyny to chic separates. Each individual piece looks as if they were fine toile patterns, layered and pieced together to create the final garment. Styled with statement Kat MaConie shoes, poker straight hair, and dark almost grungy eye make up offsetting the pure palette of the clothes, I am secretly hoping that when this designer truly takes off (which she will) will hold on to the spirit and intimate atmosphere of this show.