On Show
Lets start by saying congratulations to Sebastiaan Pieter Groenen for winning collection of the year. Doing it for the boys, this was the first menswear collection to take the honour; and I am actually quite surprised as it can be argued that it takes a whole new skill level of tailoring and structure compared to womenswear; the devil in the detail, and that is exactly why he won the award. Winner of the Barnett Lawson best use of trimmings was Ashleigh Downer, her organic approach growing tubes of crystals herself which she embedded into her garments. Fashion Innovation went to Lili Colley, Rose Irwin, and Diana Auria Harris. What was original about the show amongst all the graduate collections I have seen in the past couple of months was that it integrated all the design disciplines into one catwalk rather than just showcasing the womenswear, and leaving the jewellery, footwear, and contour in the static exhibition. My favourite collaboration between Mary Binding, and her patent leather orange jacket seamlessly styled with frayed knitwear dresses by Lucy Starling. Inside Hackney House models in Timothy Bouyez-Forge geometric cut out sacks glided between mirrored pillars; the show began in the Rory Parnell Mooney abyss, black leather jackets, luxe furs, and super long chunky scarves; the models covered in heavy black glitter body paint mouth pieces, and heavy harness like Claire Pugh jewellery. Isabell Yalda Hellysaz brought quarantine chic, masked, in shades of white, and cream there was tassel fringe detail layered over the trousers, bobble knitwear, and structured white jackets. Si Chan brough a whole new meaning to touching yourself, as the collection of pastel suits, and puffa jackets were accompanied by roving hands enveloping each model in a hug.

















