There was a state of undress on the London College of Fashion BA 2015 catwalk last night. Womenswear Designers Rosemary Lambert, Fanni Varga, and Chun Yin Mok indivually created collections there were a state of undress. In the lack of structure and clean lines there was fluidity, freeness and an almost messiness, for want of a better word, that I am sure was planned down to every last stitch. The Fanni Varga collection was just sexy. Not overtly sexy like Victoria Secret, but a Wednesday Adams all grown up with lace, sheer panels and cut outs that were made to create impact. Rosemary Lambert ( my one to watch) didn’t disappoint there was a romance to her collection that was inspired ny Russian photographer Boris Mikhailov who documented a section of society as they became homeless after the fall of the Soviet Union. Collaborating with Kate Cheung Wing Ki added the necessary texture that was needed to ground the garments as it would have just been pretty.
ChunYin Marc Mok was abstract, the pieces were more like cut offs of toile paper that were draped on a mannequin to be cut into something more form-fitting later. The folds of white fabric, bent under its own weight to reveal metallic underlays, the models stepped slowed and more careful with their sponge shoes leading into the Designers need to drum to its own original beat, this was a collection I remembered.